Lana is a good-looking restaurant. There’s soft lighting, exposed timber, and a pretty rose-coloured marble bar that adds drama to the space. The food is led by executive chef Alex Wong, who uses Italy as a jumping-off point to weave in flavours and techniques from (mainly) Asia.

Think rigatoni with “mapo ragu”, the pasta made at sibling Grana downstairs (even if it’s a little overcooked here), and a standout rosemary-saltbush focaccia served with addictive black-garlic butter. But with such a long menu, not everything is going to be a hit, like a deconstructed eggplant “parmigiana” that just feels confused.

The service, too, can lack focus, although when it’s good, it’s informed and informative. Missteps aside, the room is one you just want to be in, with undeniable buzz and energy, and when Wong’s cooking is on song his dishes are some of the most interesting in the city. One to watch.

Good to know: Lana is the centrepoint of Hinchcliff House, including the casual all-day dining Grana and subterranean bar Appolonia.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.