The crackling fireplace draws you into Heywood: a perfect start to a slow, soul-warming winter lunch.

A wine paddle is a taster of the award-winning Nick O’Leary wines, with the “red paddle” journeying from sangiovese to shiraz.

Stracciatella arrives at a welcome room temperature, with beautifully grilled confit leek sinking into the soft cheese and charred Ten Thousands Harvests’ oyster mushrooms anchoring things.

Whole butterflied rainbow trout from the Snowy Mountains is delicately cooked, the flesh slipping away from the bone at the lightest press of a fork. An accompanying beurre blanc is served on the side so it doesn’t overpower the fish, with acidity from the grapefruit and fried curry leaves brightening each bite.

Meanwhile, a 600-gram Riverina rib-eye will satiate any carnivores craving a richer, fuller flavour. Conclude with a digestif outside, overlooking the stunning Hally Valley view.

Must-order dish: Rainbow trout with beurre blanc.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.