Tucked inside a 160-year-old building, Gundaroo’s offering of “local heart and country soul”, as described by owners Kurt and Tanya Neumann, is all about seasonality.

Rye bread is courtesy of Three Mills in Canberra; entrees begin with house-smoked pork jowl brined for two days and teamed with the acid and crunch of pear, witlof and dates. A portobello tart with manchego and porcini is a flaky pastry affair that carries citrus notes and a nutty cream to highlight the mushrooms’ umami.

Lamb rump from Gundagai is blushing and tender, accompanied by celeriac, braised cavolo nero and a punchy anchovy butter. Sweets might be something rustic such as baked quince clafoutis topped with an earthy chestnut ice-cream.

Service is jolly and jovial, but also backs it up with quickfire answers and recommendations (plus wit) for a wine list that celebrates the region.

Must order: House-smoked Berkshire pork jowl, pear, witlof, walnut, date.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.