The 6pm sitting was once the reserve of attention-hungry toddlers and ageing aunts. Now, it seems everyone wants an early night out. Weekend dinner at this friendly Italian tratt starts from 5pm and the tight-packed tables and open kitchen are humming before sun sets in the Shire.

Bringing them in before dark is an expansive antipasti selection, slabs of salty focaccia and super-crunchy calamari with punchy chilli aioli. Creamy and cheesy golden-baked semolina atop vibrant leafy greens and field mushrooms is classic comfort food. Properly al dente spaghetti with fried prosciutto and sharp, salty pecorino or crumbed pork Milanese with bright and bitter radicchio, grapefruit and fennel are certified crowd pleasers.

The old-school gelato cart and refreshingly light tiramisu will delight diners of any age. And did we mention the budget-friendly house wines? Now that’s worth getting in early for.

Good to know: BYO wine and bubbles for Saturday lunch and all-day Sundays.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.