It’s hard to go broke serving pizza and pasta by the seaside. It’s what we want to eat, where we want to eat it. Toss in Orazio D’Elia’s wood-fired porchetta and it’s no wonder the chef has expanded into the space next door, with outdoor tables lining Bondi’s “Hub” arcade.

The refurbished dining room takes cues from the masseria farmhouses of Puglia with rendered walls and sheer curtains, while terracotta-tiled floors turn the room into a hearth for the central wood-fire oven. From the glowing dome comes big, puffy-crusted pizza topped with sugo, anchovies and capers or folded over fior de latte and salame.

Now, with Orazio also running a pasticceria in Alexandria, the name signatures (pizza, porchetta) could do with an update – profiterole al pistacchio capped with warm pistachio ganache is a cracking way to finish a meal. When the desserts are this good, success is all but baked in.

Good to know: Pizza party? A new private dining room seats 14-20 guests, with three set menus to choose from.

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