This sunny canteen specialises in one thing: gently poached chicken, pulled off the bone for the signature Hoi An-style com ga. But this is no ordinary chicken rice: free-range birds are remarkably full-flavoured and juicy, and the special comes with braised offal that’s clean, balanced and rich, with a sauce set to pour over sunshine-yellow turmeric rice.

Staff keep up with the fast-paced dining room, steering first-timers to their favourites, including dumplings generously stuffed with pork mince, glass noodles and a quail egg, served with scissors, lettuce and herbs – snip, rip, wrap, eat and repeat. Papaya salad, meanwhile, is bright and fruity, sweet and sour.

There’s plenty more central and northern Vietnamese fare too, including nourishing bun ga mang moc or comforting pho. And to go with it? Try the crocodile water – made from tangy dracontomelon fruit – among a host of bright and colourful Viet drinks.

Good to know: It’s cash only, so hit the ATM before you visit

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