Thankfully, the name here isn’t literal – it’s an homage to those unpretentious family-run eateries that are the backbone of so many cities. Cash Only Diner skips Vietnamese favourites like pho and banh mi for a focus on Hue’s regional specialties, such as a beautifully tender claypot salmon that exquisitely balances umami and sweetness.

It can be enjoyably hands-on when you’re scooping up the banh khot – a crunchy mini-pancake heaving with fresh herbs, prawn and roe – or even theatrical, like with the clam rice in a fragrant broth that’s poured tableside. Best of all is the bun bo hue, the complex noodle soup grounded with funk and tied together by a bright lemongrass stock.

There’s quirkiness (anyone for a mystery glass of wine?), but it’s mostly a wholehearted tribute to an oft-overlooked food region. Oh, and the drinks list is banging.

Good to know: There are bottomless yum cha brunches on weekends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.