Owner-chef Claire Van Vuuren and her friendly crew have ingrained Bloodwood into the fabric of the inner west. A good-value $49 “school night” menu makes a visit Monday to Thursday a sensible decision, while the verve and energy of Newtown permeates the dining room and front bar on Fridays and Saturdays.

Fun fact: Bloodwood once tried to take its deeply homey polenta chips with gorgonzola off the menu, but there was a revolt. It’d be a surprise if regulars didn’t rally behind a rustic lamb pie special too, or a beautiful slice of porchetta with ridiculously crisp crackling.

This is food that’s easy to enjoy, matched by an approachable wine list, with plenty of bottles under $100. Bloodwood has seen many nearby venues come and go since it opened in 2010, but it’s stood its ground because it knows what it means to be a good local, while slowly evolving to meet the moment.

Good to know: Don’t skip dessert. Custard and seasonal fruit is a delightful way to finish a solid meal.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.