There are “Japanese listening bars” in Sydney run by restaurant groups who seem more interested in gimmicks and profit, and then there’s this low-lit sake haven which approaches the form with respect and integrity. Records lining the sleek bar come from owner Matt Young’s private collection of Afrobeat and hard bop and everything in between; the serious line up of sake comes from his import business, Black Market.

Chef Jemma Whiteman and her team also send out small plates strong on creativity and technique. Fried potato mochi with “everything bagel” sprinkle are a textural adventure; pink snapper ceviche is enlivened by calamansi and makrut lime oil; chewy casarecce pasta and chubby prawns thrum with citrusy, complex kanzuri chilli paste underlined by clementine.

Charcoal-grilled rump cap with a glorious fringe of sweet fat is more substantial, and a mirin-seasoned slab of creme caramel feels custom-made for quiet contemplation and whisky beneath Ante’s high-calibre speakers.

Good to know: The bar is worth a session for its innovative cocktails alone.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.