They’re calling it a wine bar, but like many of Sydney’s wine bars, 40Res feels more like a restaurant that happens to also pour vino. Not to say the drinks list isn’t decent – there are way more options by the glass than nearby contemporaries, and it’s got some banging inclusions from important small Aussie and international producers – but there’s no one hyping them up, so you don’t feel like it’s an essential part of the visit.

What is essential is the cooking. Chef-owner Josh Raine scored a hat at Canvas after a stint as executive chef at Tetsuya’s, and he sure knows how to crank up the flavour. The salt and pepperberry calamari packs a punch, prawn bisque risotto is rich and deep. And yuzu posset with rhubarb sorbet is both on-trend and ultra-refreshing. With more focus on the service, this place could be a force. Bring it on.

Good to know: Despite its restaurant leanings, 40Res has a more-than-decent snack selection, including croquettes and crumbed coral trout fingers with pil pil. Pop in and pair them with a drink.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.