It’s a cold Wednesday night and 20 Chapel is pumping. That’s the lure of Corey Costelloe’s knack for writing – and cooking – a menu: the former Rockpool Bar & Grill culinary director knows what people want. Steak. Negronis. Wagyu fat gravy.

He’s also snagged plenty of new fans since opening last year, and the potato wedges with creme fraiche and chilli jam already have cult local status. The Russian honey cake isn’t coming off anytime soon, either.

20 Chapel is a more casual affair than Rockpool (the venue was once Stix Cafe), but that’s the vibe Costelloe is going for while still leveraging his long-term relationships with steak suppliers including Blackmore and CopperTree to get the good stuff. Meanwhile, duck cooked in master stock is jolted by the flavour of smoky mandarin, and sous chef Owen Okada taps his Fijian roots for a refreshing kokoda – a textural ceviche with coconut cream and sago.

Good to know: A very generous bottomless lunch happens every Saturday.