A great French restaurant isn’t just about the menu: it should feel made for intimate, mysterious liaisons. Here you’ll get just that - low lights, hidden leather booths, velvet accents and harlequin floors. The expertly mixed mini martinis are ice-cold; the kitchen pumps out no shortage of steak and frites.

Nostalgia is delivered with a cheeky wink and of-the-moment touches. A towering prawn cocktail vol-au-vent practically poses for the camera, with a dramatic king prawn crowning lush avocado cream and glistening salmon roe perched on buttery pastry.

The mostly Oz-French wine list is stacked with Victorian numbers, but also offers more obscure drops like the spicy pineau d’Aunis - a light-yet-complex red to add frisson to perfectly pink duck breast served on grilled radicchio. Desserts keep things retro and picturesque: go for ginger creme with torched meringue, best eaten a deux.

Must-order: Prawn cocktail vol-au-vent.

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