People travel far for the kind of detailed pastry lamination you see in the croissants and kouign-amann made by chef-turned-baker Benjamin Griffiths at Yarra Valley Artisan Baker. In fact, the customers often come from further afield than the ingredients.

The biodynamic rye, spelt and French red Zanzibar flours for the fastidiously slow-risen loaves come from Miller Baker James in Seville. The eggs and rich jersey milk for the custard and citrus tarts come from micro-farms around the corner, while danishes and frangipane are all stuffed with whatever locals provide. Your only decision is whether to come early and snag all the potato focaccia, or wait until 10.30am when the baguettes drop.

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