It feels like a hideout but everyone’s invited to this party, which takes place at a communal table running the length of the room. As at older sibling Manzé, small producers from Mauritius and Australia drive the offering. A negroni is made with spiced rum, steak buzzes with a chilli-shallot emulsion, and hot sauce enhances all. Don’t pass go without a taro fritter, the perfect crunchy-yet-fluffy bite.

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