You’ll know you’re at the right place when piping-hot boat noodles hit your table, the broth so deeply meaty it’s dark enough to hide melty braised beef and fresh rice noodles with bounce. Slow-cooked pork intestines and blindingly sweet pink milk drinks confirm this isn’t your average Thai joint.

Fried fish balls are airy golden puffs. Glossy duck pad krapao is punched up with five-spice and Thai basil, crowned with a curly-edged fried egg. The setting is lo-fi – bright lights, pocket display book menus, bathroom through the kitchen – but it feels buzzy and welcoming rather than bare.

Service is warm and fast – in fact, dessert has been known to occasionally come out first. But it’s hard to complain once you taste the steamed pandan custard blanketed by coconut cream. Unlicensed? Sure. But rainbow-bright mocktails more than soften the chilli blows.

Must-order: It’s impossible to go wrong with the beef boat noodles, available with endless customisations.

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