Mum’s Lunch delivers what its name promises: food that feels like memory. The street may be edged with factories, the dining room bright and spare, but the greetings are warm. The mother-daughter team in the kitchen brings you boiling soups and sizzling plates.

Funky soybean stew arrives bubbling in an earthenware pot with flaky grilled mackerel, the salty fish tempering the liquid’s savoury depths. Smoked duck is served on a hotplate, hissing and spitting, the fatty skin balanced by spicy sauce and crunchy seaweed. Japchae noodles, fragrant and glossy with sesame oil, are meant for sharing but you’ll wish you weren’t.

Then the banchan: sweet-spicy daikon with crunch, chewy shredded squid, tender zucchini slicked with garlic, onions that stay boldly oniony despite their pickle bath. You’ll come for the mains; you’ll dream about the sides.

Good to know: It is open only for lunch on weekdays, so plan ahead – it’s worth it.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.