People will tell you to order the curry laksa, and those people should be listened to. The Malaymas version has earnt its esteem: light, bright and balanced, with a dazzlingly intricate coconut-rich broth.

At least one wok-tossed noodle dish is another mandatory order, be it smoky char kwai teow, silky hor fun or Singapore bee hoon. The restaurant has the glazed-brick walls and fat floor tiles of a suburban home, and the similarities don’t end there. The family-run operation is regularly full of big groups.

There’s vendor-style teh and kopi (tea and coffee). Kids dig through the visually epic dessert ais kacang, hunting down bits of green jelly, and their drawings are on display. At a time when many are losing faith in institutions, Malaymas is one you can trust.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.