There are hundreds of sambals found across Indonesia, an impossible number to capture on one menu. But Kenangan, wedged into a corner of Queen Victoria Market, has a strong line-up. Not all are as fiery as the sambal terasi that comes with soto ayam, a sunshine-yellow bowl of gentle chicken soup.

Green chilli-based sambal ijo has less bite, cooked until jammy, while smoky threads of shallot and chilli in sambal goreng bring a savoury edge. There’s also yielding duck leg coated in sticky bakar kecap sauce; barramundi that’s crisp and soft in all the right places; and sate lilit, the beautifully grilled minced chicken flecked with lemongrass and chilli.

Ordering by smartphone is encouraged, including for pisang bolen pastries filled with banana, chocolate and cheese, which make for a salty-sweet finish to accompany the staff’s friendly farewell.

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