There’s a quiet confidence to this humble outfit, which has been owned and operated by the same family for 34 years. You’ll feel it when long-time patrons are welcomed by name, and when dishes are sequenced just as you asked.

Gnarled Hanoi-style spring rolls are a textural adventure. Wrap each blistered parcel of pork, prawn and mushroom in an iceberg lettuce blanket with fresh mint and vermicelli.

The revered dipping sauce nuoc cham is always at the ready, walking the line between sour, salty and lip-tingling. It appears with the slippery, prawn-filled rice noodle rolls banh cuon; and you should absolutely dunk the turmeric-laced crispy pancake banh xeo in it, too.

Can’t decide between the 17 pho options? The special beef with tendons that dissolve on your tongue lives up to its celebrated status. Thatched ceiling panels and yellow beams add to the warm and fuzzy feeling of dining at a local legend.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.