It helps that the decor takes a back seat, because combined with the extensive menu it may cause sensory overload. Exposed brick, soft downlights and timber tables are pleasant yet forgettable; deep-fried Marmite chicken is not.

Earthy, sweet and bold, every bite of boneless thigh lingers long, even with the addition of spring onion curls. Banquets, whether for three or 10, are built around rice.

Salted fish fried rice is at once smoky and briny, each individual grain impressively charred. Orbiting it are fried kam heong pork ribs screaming with bird’s eye chilli, fermented shrimp and curry leaf; that Marmite chicken; and garlicky stir-fried broccoli and carrot for balance and crunch.

No meal is complete without the milky, sweet Malaysian-style tea and coffee. Or give iced Milo – the unofficial national drink – a whirl.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.