Branching off a Mort Street laneway, the interior details of Wine Room summon the tones and hues of the Australian landscape in its ceramic, tile and wood finishes.

It’s fitting for a place that foregrounds, wherever it’s possible, Australian ingredients. Reverse-butterflied Queensland sand whiting, say, that flakes softly, served with tomato vinaigrette and branchlets of samphire. Yielding, charred kohlrabi, meanwhile, comes out on butter-coloured corn puree in a sensuous interplay of textures.

There’s detail in the small plates, too – the pomme Williams, a pear-shaped sculpture of deep-fried potato – is served on a hot tablet with toum bringing garlicky punch, while Tasmanian trout rillettes is accompanied by roe, cornichons and croutons – all pop, pickle and crunch.

Shout out to the excellent and knowledgeable staff, who steer things ably and attentively all the way through to a finish, best capped with – what else – one of a range of Australian cheeses.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.