Spot the kueh on the counter? The striated layers of white and green and red of the kueh lapis? Or coconut-flecked pandan-scented ondeh ondeh, bursting with molten gula melaka? That’s how you know you’re in ripe territory for proper Malay cooking.

Go early on weekends for nasi lemak and traditional drinks including Milo dinosaurs and teh tarik, or bring a crew and load up rendang, satay and char kway teow, plus roti canai stretched, flipped and folded to order. Craving a hard-to-find kueh? Odds are if you ask, they can make it happen.

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