Since it opened in 2018, Terra has been unequivocal about its focus – and that focus was fire. Flames could be seen fluttering behind the kitchen counter, licking rotisserie chickens. Beef brisket came from the smoker. Pork belly from the wood oven. But then abruptly, Terra announced they were closing, until they weren’t, finding a lifeline in the old Miss Van’s site across the road.

The new fit-out is a little more casual, and daytime trade is canteen-style, geared for city workers who fill melamine trays with the likes of miso chat potatoes tossed with feta, creamy caesar salad and yes, grilled, crackly pork belly and rotisserie chicken with burnished skin.

Shelves are lined with takeaway bottles, with plenty of blush-pink and orange gear, while come nightfall, the roster of snacks and wood-fired meats expands, extending to chicken-heart skewers, wagyu steak and swordfish loin. As always, pickles and sauces are elite, too.

Good to know: Two of Canberra’s hottest newcomers, Recess and Outro, are run by the same group.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.