Vitello tonnato on a pizza? Say no more. Regina la Pizzeria’s “Celentano” sees thin slices of veal, tuna mayonnaise, fried capers and finely shaved cured egg yolk atop a puffy base that’s been fried then baked.

This twice-cooked pizza variation, known as fritta, is far lighter than you might expect, with a golden crust not too dissimilar to a savoury doughnut. And while all the usual classic toppings are available here, the specials menu is all about new flavour combinations: the Fellini with sweet corn, ham and comte, say, or the Versace with king prawns, candied tomato and bottarga.

The main character in the open kitchen is undoubtedly the Naples-built Fazzone wood-fire oven, its volcanic stone blasting each pizza with even and ferocious heat. Pan-baked pizza fans, meanwhile, should seek out the padellino strewn with Parma prosciutto, zucchini flowers and dollops of stracciatella.

Good to know: Book counter seats for front row pizza-making and wood oven action.

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