A bistro-brasserie in Parisian style, Lucette is cleverly tooled to suit the many speeds and needs of the Highlands. Viennoiserie and omelettes in the morning, baguettes at lunch, steak frites for dejeuner and dîner.

Roll in for breakfast, pop in for lunch, cruise in for afternoon aperitifs (who else serves Suze in town, anyway?), or settle in for date night. In any case, sitting here is a pleasure, either inside behind cafe curtains, or slung on mustard banquettes in the breezy terrace. But the real kicker is on the plate, where chef Guillaume Dubois (ex-Monopole) brings fine-dining nous to classics.

The peppercorn sauce with wagyu steak? Infused with shio kombu. Chicken-liver parfait? Topped with rosé jelly. Tartare has brown-butter depth, chocolate mousse has praline crunch. And then service is just the right amount of Parisian brusque to be charming. Lucette? It might just be the little light the Highlands has been waiting for.

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