Behind a handsome shopfront lies a moody scene of bare brick, sleek fittings and dripping candles.

The menu runs Italian to the core but with a firm anchor in the region’s growers and wine culture. House-made focaccia Pugliese is a triumph: crisp, airy and generously topped with tomato, olive and oregano.

Sausage spiked with fennel and chilli brings warmth and substance, tempered by earthy braised borlotti beans, while outstanding local lamb rump from Kinross Station arrives rosy and tender, supported by creamed leeks and speck.

For dolce, the ubiquitous Ferrero Rocher is rescued from stale office-gift ignominy, reimagined as a thoughtful medley of mousse and textures under a fine chocolate dome.

The service is warm and eager, if short on finesse, but there’s intent here, and enough moments of real flavour clarity to mark Lucetta as a confident addition to the local scene.

Best for: Date night with local wines.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.