Remember when Sydney was in the midst of a Spanish restaurant revival? Things move quickly, but Letra House, slipped underneath Palazzo Salato, is here to remind you that it’s not over. And of all the Iberian-influenced openings, it’s the one that best captures the freewheeling and free-spirited energy of the heartland. How? It’s there in the ever-changing wine list, extending to 50 bottles, all on by the glass, many offered by the carafe – and plenty of which are made by women, be it txakoli or touriga.

In the tight edit of vermouth, chef Brandon Jones’ exceptionally snackable menu. Is there a more satisfying pop than a savoury doughnut filled with Manchego custard and crowned with an anchovy? The raw red carid prawn tostada, capped with lime zest, wants your number. While pipi-strewn scorched rice and coiled lamb and pork sausage make it a meal. Come early, come late, or make it the main event.

Best for: Pre-dinner snacks, or conservas and discounted cocktails from 10.30pm until close.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.