The bohemian village of Bellingen doesn’t believe in rushing. Not even when it comes to pizza. At Charlie’s at Church, a green and gold-hued trattoria in the heart of town, the pizza-making process stretches over three days, with sourdough left to cold-ferment to develop flavour and form supple chew.

Once ready, the base is spread with slow simmered San Marzano sauce, then smeared with smoked ricotta or scattered with purple violetta artichoke hearts. Soon, it’ll also feature shavings of prosciutto from a whole leg of Bangalow currently curing in the cool room.

It’s the same story with pasta. Ruffled belts of mafalde are extruded daily and layered with fall-apart Dorrigo lamb, while conchiglie catch slurps of vodka sauce cut with a flicker of fermented chilli. Both pizza and pasta are available for pick-up, but most locals would rather linger in the warmly lit dining room.

Good to know: Double-down with breakfast at Charlie’s newly opened day-time cafe The Church Street Social.

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