Soi 38
Fun and fiery street-food spot.
Soi 38
Thai$
After a decade in a CBD carpark, Melbourne’s hit Thai restaurant Soi 38 has regained a little of its elusiveness, which is surprising, given that it’s part of a shiny overhaul of the former Tivoli Arcade. Once inside, it feels just like a canteen, with space for up to 240 customers. Grey floors and exposed ceilings are offset by brightly coloured metal tables and stools, which fans will recognise from the original.
Stir-fries and other wok-cooked dishes from co-owner Top Piyaphanee’s childhood in Bangkok feature on the menu. You can also expect the flat rice noodle dish guay tiew kua gai, which features chicken, preserved squid, egg and Sriracha sauce, with the Soi 38 twist of fried chicken skin on top. Pad krapow, the holy basil and chilli stir-fry, will be made with dry-aged beef for more complexity. At lunch, stir-fries on rice will join the noodle menu.
A large bar dispenses cocktails loaded with Thai aromatics, and a dessert station is set up to cook the tiny coconut milk pancakes kanom krok. Coconut water, Thai milk tea and other non-alc drinks are also available.
Good to know: Get to the Bourke Street venue by heading down Royal Lane and through a hard-to-find door.
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