Grossi Florentino Grill

Between the boisterous Cellar Bar and the grand Grossi Florentino, the Grill might seem in danger of suffering from middle-child syndrome. If you thought it wasn't swanky enough for the big night, or too pricey for pre-theatre pasta, you'd be wrong. Here's assured, eminently civilised, value dining - crowded with pollies, financiers, lawyers and Italian food lovers spending their own money. A tightly packed room with an open kitchen, simple white linen and assured service, the Grill has an extensive menu based around superb produce and technique. Select antipasti from a list of maybe sweet-and-sour eggplant, salt cod croquettes, salumi, and pressed mullet roe with lemon, parsley and chilli. The signature grill is fired up for dry-aged Angus steaks, Italian sausage or simple spatchcocked chicken with lemon and chilli. Favourites with the regulars are line-caught fish roasted in a bag, a 12-hour pork neck and the businessman's friend, the crumbed veal cutlet. Finish with traditional desserts, like gelato or tiramisu.