Fitzroy Mexican favourite El Columpio opens ‘risky’ seafood spin-off in a St Kilda kiosk

Melbourne’s Mexican game is surging for summer with a new El Columpio “taqueria and marisqueria” (taco and seafood restaurant) on St Kilda Beach.

“We’re doing the next level of tacos,” says owner Ricardo Garcia Flores, who opened the first El Columpio in Fitzroy in March 2024, where it quickly became a favourite for tacos and pozole. “It’s a risk, but I think Melbourne is ready.”

The risk is using more expensive ingredients, such as seafood, prime steak and prized chiltepin chillies, a tiny wild-grown red pepper with an intense but short-lived burn. Those ingredients are brought together in dishes such as the taco mar y tierra (sea and land), with porterhouse, prawn, guacamole, melty Oaxacan cheese and a chiltepin salsa. “This can’t be a $5 taco,” says Garcia Flores, who will price it at $20.

Another signature dish is the torre de mariscos, a seafood tower for two people ($50) presented in a stainless steel tube that is removed at the table, revealing a layered stack of cooked and raw prawns, raw scallops and diced tuna, cucumber (or mango in season) and avocado. It’s then toppled into a marvellous messy pile before being lavishly sauced for diners to pile over crisp tortillas.

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Fitzroy bestsellers such as the signature taco de suadero with beef brisket will be heading south of the river, served alongside new dishes like a taco with calamari and pico de gallo. “I don’t do fusion,” says Garcia Flores. “But this one is kind of a fusion because I’m in love with Australian calamari.”

As soon as a new tortilla press arrives, Garcia Flores will introduce a burrito incorporating elements from all over Mexico. “It’s a house-made flour tortilla filled with Oaxacan cheese, corn chips, fried beans and green sauce plus calamari or fish or schnitzel,” he says. “Melbourne hasn’t seen anything like it yet.”

Garcia Flores grew up in Mexico City 2200 metres above sea level and didn’t see the coastline until his family took a holiday to Acapulco when he was 12. “The ocean was only a dream for me,” he says. “And then you see it. You can’t believe how big it is, how amazing it is.”

St Kilda was the first beach he visited after moving to Australia 10 years ago. “I’m in love with it here,” he says. “The ocean is a different colour to Mexico. You see people dancing and enjoying. It has the best vibe.”

The idea is to bring a taste of Mexican coastal destinations such as Puerto Marques in Acapulco, Mazatlan, Veracruz and Puerto Vallarta to postcode 3182. “I hope it will be that same relaxed kind of place we see on the Mexican seaside,” says Garcia Flores.

The kiosk is between the St Kilda Sea Baths and Catani Gardens, overlooking a lawn that gives onto the promenade and the beach itself. It was previously home to Claw & Tail. The seating is all outdoors, or you can take your spoils to the sand.

‘I hope it will be that same relaxed kind of place we see on the Mexican seaside.’

Ricardo Garcia Flores

A liquor licence is pending: expect Mexican beer to swig straight or pour into chilled, salt-rimmed glasses to make micheladas. Otherwise, there’s spiced rice milk horchata and Melbourne-style coffee – both hot and cold.

“I’m very excited,” says Garcia Flores. “This is my chance to keep giving Melbourne more of Mexico.”

Open Wed-Sun noon-late from Friday, October 24, extended hours in summer.

El Columpio St Kilda, 20 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda, elcolumpio.com