Cumbe

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Cumbe’s specialty is torta de chilaquiles, a Mexico City street-food sandwich whose namesake ingredient is corn tortilla chips simmered in red or green salsa, usually served at breakfast. It’s encased in crusty white rolls with your protein of choice and a plethora of other fillings.

Here, tiger rolls are sourced from nearby Vietnamese bakery Dat Thanh and are laden with often gloopy fillings. The cochinita pibil, a Yucatan dish of slow-roasted pork shoulder and neck, is cooked for 17 hours until melt-in-your-mouth tender. Its deeply spiced marinade imparts an earthy, peppery flavour. The milanesa (aka schnitzel) is sliced into strips for eating ease; helpful when it’s already a grande mouthful to contend with.

The staff are rightly proud of the house-made sauce in squeeze bottles on the tables – a mild, fruity mix of fermented red tomatoes, spices, mango and Mexican beer that provided a welcome exclamation point when all the fillings started to meld. For those who like it spicy, a house-made hot sauce made with arbol and guajillo chillies dials up the heat and acid.

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