Wedged among a busy stretch of casual restaurants, this community institution falls somewhere between cafe and living room. Diners gossip at the next table over a huge vessel of tea, and if you visit with a regular you’re unlikely to be given a menu.

Dishes reflect Somalia’s history as an Indian Ocean trading hub and Italian colony. Sambusas – pastry pyramids stuffed with minced beef and onion – come with a slice of lemon. Soft chapati, Somali spaghetti or bariis (aromatic basmati rice flecked with sultanas and peas) accompany mains.

Paprika-stained chicken brings heft to your chosen side, but most tables order suqaar, chunks of lamb sauteed with onion and capsicum in a sauce laden with cumin, cinnamon and more. Still look hungry? You might be offered more rice, or steered towards house-made halwa, a spongy sweet finale rich with cardamom and nutmeg.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.