Istanbul’s famous grilled fish sandwich balik ekmek is sold from stalls and boats along the Bosphorus. In Melbourne, it’s sold in an industrial carpark in the city’s deep north. Ciger kebabs, too: an Anatolian special of quickly grilled, smoky chunks of lamb liver, which is another exceedingly rare sight on our culinary landscape.

Miksa slings both from its humble food truck with max aplomb. An adjoining covered dine-in area pumps with families and mates letting the juice cover their arms while the good times rule. The adana kebab here features spiced lamb mince and plenty of fragrant red pepper, a judicious balance between fat and protein.

Everything is served in long crusty rolls that cop a sizzle on the grill in the meat juices for that extra hit of decadence. Grab a bottle of salgam, the best fermented black carrot juice you’ll ever drink, and get at it.

Must-order dish: Snapper roll

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