Are you team cutlet or shish? Rice or bread? Wrap or plate? Don’t choose: take a gang, order generously and pick at the mezze and meats as you would in Turkey.

Komur’s adana kebabs are fight-over-the-last-piece good, made with chunky lamb mince that purrs with chilli. Double-down on lamb with a cutlet or two, their dainty bones matched by baby-soft meat. Herb salad with sumac-dusted red onion is a refresher between meaty bites and a bright addition to DIY pita wraps.

Cucumber-yoghurt dip – white as parchment and thick as cream – comes in a bowl covered in folksy patterns, a nod to tradition in an otherwise modern room. Big tables settle in with BYO wine or hit the list of raki. Others are in and out in 20 minutes or collecting takeaway, their usual order remembered by the efficient team.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.