Co Thu Quan faces little competition, even on one of Melbourne’s busiest Vietnamese eating strips. Its specialty dish appears about halfway through the illustrated menu: banh canh cua, a southern Vietnamese soup rarely found in the city. The broth is thick and steamy, the kind that clings to the finger-width tapioca noodles and coats generous pieces of crab, prawns and mushroom.

The dining room is simple and bright, with communal dark wood tables anchoring the space, tissue boxes and chopsticks sitting on top. There’s no preamble. The food comes quickly, and the setup is as practical as any street-level spot in Ho Chi Minh City.

A few decorative shutters and scattered trinkets add a hint of charm. For something sweet at the end, there’s che Thai, a bowl of crushed ice, coconut milk, jelly and fruit, or a gently sweet custard apple smoothie.

Must-order: Banh canh cua.

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