‘You won’t muck it up’: The basic formula for grilling great steak every time

For the quintessential taste, smell and sense of summer, it’s hard to beat a sizzling steak on the grill – but which cuts should you wrap your tongs around, and what’s the best way to cook them?

Colombian chef Juan Berbeo has been butchering and cooking beef since he could reach the kitchen bench. Back home in the Colombian market town of Fusagasuga, his family regularly caters for crowds of up to 5500 at community grill fests.

The numbers aren’t quite as staggering at Berbeo Bar and Grill in Melbourne’s Docklands, but Juan Berbeo has built a loyal following for his expertly butchered cuts and precision grilling.

Drawing on a lifetime of professional butchery and fireside experience, Berbeo shares his essential guide to navigating different cuts, his foolproof formula for the perfect sear, and the signature marinade that elevates good meat to greatness.

The cuts

“The cow is not just a rib-eye and a loin,” says Berbeo. “Looking at different cuts is a way of appreciating the actual animal.”

These are some of the best cuts for barbecuing, and basic tips for cooking them.

Eye fillet medallions (tenderloin)

A more expensive cut that pays you back in tenderness. Choose fillets that are 2cm-3cm thick. “You can have eye fillet blue (extra rare), so you could cook these for just one-and-a-half minutes each side, then rest in a warm place, then cook again for a minute each side.”

Porterhouse (sirloin or striploin)

A tender prime cut that’s moderately expensive. Cut thinly, this is a minute steak. But portioned 2cm-3cm thick, you can cook for two to three minutes each side for medium-rare, then rest for six to eight minutes. Cook again for a minute each side, then give the steak a mini-rest before slicing and serving.

T-bone

The T-bone has the eye fillet on one side of the bone and the porterhouse on the other. Cook as for porterhouse, but also stand the steak up on its end for a few minutes to allow heat to penetrate along the bone. After the first rest, you can carve the fillets from the bone and give them a little grill on the exposed side that was close to the bone. Return the steak to its T-bone shape to serve.

‘In general, cook less than you think you should, because you can fix an undercooked steak but not an overcooked one.’

Chef Juan Berbeo

Rump

“Rump is so versatile and not too expensive; it’s my favourite cut,” Berbeo says. To achieve a perfect medium-rare, he relies on a simple 1cm = 1 minute formula, noting that most home cooks tend to overdo it. “In general, cook less than you think you should,” he advises. “You can always fix an undercooked steak, but you can’t fix an overcooked one.”

Another of his prized picks is the rump cap. While it carries a distinct layer of fat, Berbeo recommends leaving it intact during the cook. To serve, he suggests slicing the steak into strips so that every bite offers a balance of lean meat and rendered fat. As he puts it: “Fat is flavour.”

Hanger or skirt

While these cuts are more budget-friendly, they offer a deeper, slightly gamey profile for those who value punchy flavour over buttery softness. Because they can be a little firmer, they are best seared over high heat and served closer to medium. These are steaks that reward a bit of chew – don’t be afraid to use your teeth, as the payoff is a depth of flavour you won’t find in more expensive cuts.

Chuck eye roll

This is an inexpensive cut that’s rarely used for grilling, but it can be rewarding. “It includes five muscles, which means there’s variation through the steak,” says Berbeo. “It can be a bit chewy, with sections of fat that crisp as you cook. It is best served medium to medium-well done.

The chef’s formula: The 1cm rule

For foolproof results every time, Berbeo relies on a simple mathematical approach to heat: one minute of cooking time per centimetre of thickness, per side. For a standard 2cm steak, this translates to two minutes on each side to reach a perfect starting point.

The initial sear and rest

Once the first round of cooking is complete, Berbeo recommends resting the steak for six to 10 minutes in a warm spot. He suggests using a wire rack to ensure the meat rests evenly. This step is crucial, as it allows the muscle fibres to relax and reabsorb their natural juices, ensuring a tender, succulent finish.

The second cook

To achieve a professional “crisscross” finish, return the steak to the heat for one final minute per side. By rotating the meat 90 degrees during this stage, you create those signature grill marks. Give it a final, brief rest for just a minute or two before the final serve.

Slicing with precision

To ensure maximum tenderness, Berbeo notes the importance of cutting “against the grain”. Identify the direction the fibres are running and use a sharp knife to slice across them perpendicularly, rather than following them.

The marinade

In Colombia, the Berbeos dip a spring onion (green onion) in a mixture of oil and beer and use it to brush the meat. Here, Berbeo makes an instant marinade that flavours the steak as well as oiling it.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped

• 10 garlic cloves, peeled

• 300ml vegetable oil

• 150ml white wine
• 1 tsp cumin powder

• ½ tsp saffron powder

• table salt

• ground black pepper

METHOD

Blitz all ingredients except salt and pepper in a food processor to make a fairly smooth sauce. Brush the sauce liberally on both sides of the steak before grilling.

This sauce will keep for a few days in the fridge.