New Restaurant of the Year, presented by Aurum Poultry: Eleven Barrack

Sydney CBD

A plush grill where you can eat a big steak is hardly a new concept, and Eleven Barrack has several competitors pitching the same idea within a two-kilometre radius. Bentley Group’s version of the form, however, is more than just another steak and seafood grill trading on stellar produce, wine and service – although certainly, it excels at these things too.

It feels like the kind of old-world restaurant they don’t make enough of anymore. The kind of place you could imagine falling asleep under the table as a kid, probably after the white-jacketed waiter sent out an extra scoop of ice-cream. That is to say, it’s fun!

There’s a live pianist on the baby grand every night! It’s also regularly buzzing with guests hooking into a chateaubriand served in a vintage chafing dish, perhaps, with silver mustard service and a bottle of something old and rare.

By imparting so much of their own personality into the place – from the Chartreuse list to the roving rum cart, to the collection of auction-house bric-a-brac that keeps growing – the team has also created a restaurant we expect will be around for a long time, not just a good one.