Ice-cream and holidays go together like a cool scoop in a paper cup. Wal Foster gets it, with flavour combinations that put childhood glee and nostalgia front and centre: orange jelly with cultured Jersey milk ice-cream, say, or warm rice pudding covered in spiced brown butter finished with the gentle heat of galangal ice-cream.

Needless to say, this isn’t your everyday parlour. Foster has experience in fine-diners such as Aria, and his restaurant-style techniques mean ice-creams are extra dense and smooth. Flavours? Expect ingredients from the hinterland, including native fruits, local honey and milk sourced from cheesemaker Debra Allard’s cows. Find them most often at Daily Counter in Brunswick Heads, or look out for one-off events with the likes of The Salty Mangrove.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.