The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

The Good Food guide to a South Gippsland road trip (feat. this essential sandwich stop)

Conquering South Gippsland’s food trail takes more than a weekend. From artisan cheese to cool-climate wines, use this hit list to fuel your next regional escape.

Roslyn Grundy

You could try to conquer South Gippsland’s culinary trail on a single weekend, but that would mean driving past some of its best bits – a tragedy for a dedicated foodie.

Roughly the size of Malta, the region spills over with artisan producers, dairy farms and cool-climate wineries. To fully appreciate its riches, you’ll need to clear a few days in your schedule. Then, armed with this hit list, a serious appetite and a full tank of petrol, you’re ready to hit the road.

Gurneys’ cellar door features decommissioned signs from Wilsons Prom, where Bill Gurnett once worked.

Gurneys Cider

Perched on a ridge with sweeping views across Wilsons Promontory, Gurneys Cider is a slice of Somerset in South Gippsland. Here, the Gurnett family channels their UK heritage into award-winning traditional and experimental drops. A tasting paddle is the best way to navigate their range, from bone-dry heritage ciders to wilder blends like pineapple tepache and a shiraz-infused collaboration with Dirty Three Wines in nearby Inverloch. Enjoy it in the cellar door or outside at picnic tables crafted from recycled timber signs from Wilsons Promontory National Park. The experience is anchored by a vast underground cellar, where classical music plays to the maturing cider – an experimental technique intended to enhance the final flavour profile.

Advertisement

343 Fish Creek-Foster Road, Foster, gurneyscider.com.au

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Loch Brewery & Distillery is located in a century-old former bank and butcher shop.

Loch Brewery and Distillery

When a shared obsession with single malt took hold in their 20s, Craig Johnson and Mel Davies traded their city careers for a life of mash bills and copper stills. Their gamble centred on a century-old former bank and a crumbling butchery shop, which they stumbled on by chance. Fourteen years on, the butchery houses the stills, tanks and maturing barrels, while the bank’s redbrick interior serves as the cellar door. Here, they pour traditional English-style ales alongside an evolving stable of spirits, from flagship whiskies to artisanal gin and rum. While Johnson enjoys guiding customers through the range, he admits a soft spot for the Boilermaker – a pairing of dark ale and matching whisky in alternating sips. “I really enjoy the interplay of flavours when they riff off each other on the palate,” he says.

44 Victoria Road, Loch, lochbrewery.com.au

Advertisement
Cheesemonger Stacey Wagner at her tiny shop, Loch Cheese Merchant, in Loch.Nicky Cawood

Loch Cheese Merchant

Stacey Wagner’s lifelong cheese obsession finds its home in postcard-pretty Loch. Open Friday to Sunday, her tiny one-woman shop is a pilgrimage site for “curd nerds”, including loyalists who make the hour-long trek from her former base in Warragul. They come for Wagner’s expertise and a rotating selection of local and international treasures, all kept in peak condition. For a taste of the region, she recommends Berrys Creek Tarwin Blue, a salty, spicy and creamy award-winner from nearby Fish Creek. Something funkier? Try the Prom Country’s Brewers Gold, a soft cheese whose rind is washed daily in Mountain Goat Steam Ale. And if the tastings whet your appetite for an impromptu picnic, she also stocks crackers, olives, a small charcuterie selection and cheese knives.

27 Victoria Road, Loch, lochcheesemerchant.com.au

Cambodian-inspired dishes such as house-cured salmon on betel leaves at Mahob at Moo’s.Nicky Cawood
Advertisement

Mahob’s at Moos

Housed in a converted butcher shop, this regional gem is a master of the dual identity. By day, it’s a bastion of modern Australian brunch: think eggs Benedict perched on golden potato cakes, smashed avocado elevated with creamy stracciatella, and a classic “burger with the lot” offering beef, chicken or vegie patties. As the sun sets, owners Woody Chet and Chanthida Penh lean into their heritage to serve bold Cambodian-inspired dishes. You might find chef Woody’s signature amok – the fragrant, aromatic steamed fish curry of his homeland – alongside a vibrant pork belly and crispy school prawn salad, bright with green mango and fresh herbs.

89 Whitelaw Street, Meeniyan, moosatmeeniyan.com.au

The Rusty Gurnard’s courtyard is popular with customers on two and four legs.

The Rusty Gurnard

Advertisement

Port Welshpool’s waterfront has found its pulse again. What was once a derelict shell is now a cheerful pub, reborn in 2024 under new owners Adam and Michelle Thorn alongside AFL great Justin Leppitsch and his wife, Christie. Whether you’re here for drinks in the courtyard with views of the historic Long Jetty or a game of pool, the menu by chef Kim Beaton – who began her career in this very kitchen – is the main draw. Expect elevated staples such as crisp fish and chips, vegetarian lasagne and chicken schnitzel and gravy. Footy tipping, spin-the-wheel competitions and weekly menu specials (including a seafood chowder beloved by locals), provide plenty of reasons to keep coming back.

85 Lewis Street, Port Welshpool, facebook.com/TheRustyGurnard

A house-baked puccia with hot salami, provolone, semi-dried tomatoes, rocket and chilli at Tooradeli.

Tooradeli

For Italian expats in Gippsland’s dairy belt, stumbling on Italo-American Tooradeli feels like striking gold. Located in Toora – a township so tiny its entire population could fit inside the MCG Members Dining Room – it’s a trove of Mediterranean pantry staples, cheese and charcuterie, including San Daniele prosciutto, sliced the “Italian way” by owner Stephen Scoglio. However, the star attraction is pucce, the rustic Pugliese-style rolls he bakes Wednesday to Sunday, then fills to order. The mortadella, stracciatelli, pickled peppers and pistachio is his pick of the sandwiches, but visitors can’t resist the press-toasted chicken Cubano, loaded with melted Swiss and pickles.

Advertisement

60 Stanley Street, Toora, tooradeli.com

Trulli owner Francesco Laera (right) has brought a taste of Puglia to Gippsland.Grind Media

Trulli

Don’t even think of driving through Meeniyan without calling into Trulli, where brothers Francesco and Claudio Laera have transplanted the flavours of their southern Italian heritage. While the name references the conical limestone huts of Puglia, the ingredients are a love letter to their adopted home. The drawcard here is the 72-hour fermented sourdough, resulting in a light, tangy crust that they top with fiery ’nduja and creamy blue cheese from Berrys Creek, or locally grown vegies and buffalo mozzarella from northern Victoria. But Trulli is more than a pizzeria. It’s a multifaceted regional hub – equal parts hangout, gelateria and bottle shop. The adjoining deli is stocked with enough artisanal salumi, cheese, bread, pastries and preserves to fuel the rest of your journey.

82 Whitelaw Street, Meeniyan, trulli.com.au

Advertisement

Welshpool Eatery

The owners of Welshpool’s service station initially envisioned an Italian roadhouse, but spotting a gap in the market set them on a bolder path. Identifying a hunger for Indian, Chinese and Mexican flavours, they transformed the site into a multi-cuisine destination. It’s a literal “fuel stop” where you can fill the tank and follow it with a fragrant goat masala, a steaming plate of egg fried rice or a chicken-filled quesadilla. A catastrophic flood on Boxing Day 2023 delayed their debut, but cemented their place in the community, which rallied to help them rebuild. They are now repaying that loyalty by tailoring the menu to local requests – offering everything from hearty plant-based burgers for seasonal workers to a classic chicken parma featuring a house-made tomato sauce.

22-24 Main Street, Welshpool, welshpooleatery.com.au

Continue this series

Gippsland
Up next
Hogget Kitchen showcases Gippsland produce.
  • Review

Hogget Kitchen

For honest seasonal cooking and a Victoria-forward wine list.

  • Review

Lamezleighs Coffee House & Eatery

A little industrial, a little midcentury, a lot of easy-going charm.

See all stories
Roslyn GrundyRoslyn Grundy is Good Food’s recipe editor.Connect via email.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement