At its core, this is a bar and bottleshop where you can eat. Owned by Con Christopoulos and Joshua Brisbane (Kirk’s, The European), there are two adjoining spaces at street level – a bar with counter seating and a bottleshop with tables – and a cellar downstairs.

The vibe is decidedly loose and casual (you can pluck a bottle from the 250-strong collection and drink it in-house for $25 corkage) while counter-style meals channel British cooking with a touch of French technique. Classic potato cakes are ramped up with salt cod brandade; tender chicken schnitzel comes with a side of snappy green beans; and the breakfast sandwich – a sproingy toasted muffin with cotechino, fried egg and sharp comte – has the potential to become iconic.

The menu is smart and drink-friendly, much of it endearingly old-school. Le Pub’s utility is varied – it works for drinks, casual first dates, or for grabbing a bottle on your way home. A bit like the perfect pub, really.

Good to know: There are no bookings, you sit where you fit, you order and pay as you go.

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