The reward for queuing during lunch rush at this hidden gem is a colourful row of curries, each one distinct, that wouldn’t be out of place at a Sri Lankan wedding banquet.

From the bain-marie, choose deep-red goat curry or earthy cassava leaf in mellow coconut milk to begin composing the perfect plate. Don’t be alarmed by the person in front of you mixing and matching the many rice options: white, garlic, turmeric, biryani. Some even add kottu – the spiced stir-fry of roti, egg and cabbage – for carbon-carb indulgence.

Deep-fried devilled chicken delivers a mean upper-cut of heat that suits its name. Caramelised chunks of eggplant swim in a sauce of cumin and coriander seed, the spices existing in perfect harmony. Want raita, sambol and salad? Order a meal. But most people eat and run, appreciating this highly effcient operation.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.