Three chardonnays showing mineral characteristics

"Minerality" is one of the buzzwords in wine. It especially applies to chardonnay. Gone are the days when a chardonnay just needed to be fresh, fruity and varietal. Today's top chardonnays are much more layered (another buzzword), or complex. "Mineral" is a vague expression, but relates to aromas, flavours and sensations in the stone or rock-like spectrum. Struck-flint, chalk, gravel, river-pebble, ironstone, steel and gun-flint are all valid descriptors. They are the non-fruity aspects of a wine's character. Think of the difference between distilled water and mineral water: that difference can be described as minerality. Winemakers use various techniques to encourage these nuances, such as wild-yeast fermentation of unclarified juice.

Isabel Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2016, Marlborough $40

Score 95

This is about as flinty as they come: the smell of fireworks is an accurate description. It has lots of struck-flint as well as intense fruit flavour. There's excellent concentration, but it's about much more than fruit. Rich but refined, satisfying and never boring, right to the last drop. Screw-cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to eight years.

Stockists Dan Murphy's stores (from May 1).

Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis 1er cru Cote de Lechet 2015, Burgundy $65

Score 94

Chablis is a candidate for the world's most mineral wine. Good Chablis, that is – and this is a ripper. Chalky is the classic description. This one adds honey, straw and various other stony/mineral notes as well as a hint of root vegetable. A wine of refinement and persistence. Cork; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to seven years.

Stockists include Jim's Cellars, Waitara (NSW); Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic).

Precipice Willow Lake Vineyard Chardonnay 2017, Yarra Valley $35

Score 95

Winemaker Marty Singh has nailed the modern, restrained, high-tensile gunflint/mineral style with this wonderful wine from a cool, sought-after Upper Yarra vineyard. Intense lemon and grapefruit flavours allied to smoky, barrel-ferment complexities. Invigorating acidity makes it a superb wine with fish. Screw-cap; 12.9 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to 10 years.

Stockists include Armadale Cellars (Vic); Community Wines, Sydney, 0401 559 383, communitywines.com.au