As you enter Nowra, the Princes Highway becomes a smorgasbord of sad pies and fast food outlets. It’s one chain after another, and nothing to indicate that, at a fairy-lit concrete lot behind a pawn shop, there’s a food truck serving some of the best dumplings you’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. This is Fatty Dumpling, where owner-cook Weiqing “Elvina” Yang serves food from her hometown in China — silky handmade dumplings, beef soup noodles, and a Chinese-style “burger” with slow-braised spiced pork.

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