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Besha Rodell

Besha Rodell is the chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Weekend.

Bar Carnation has taken over the former Gerald's Bar space.
14/20

Opened in the shadow of its predecessor Gerald’s, Bar Carnation is startlingly bright

Gerald’s Bar’s successor continues the successful formula of good drinks plus good people plus good food equals the best times.

  • Besha Rodell

Latest

Oyasters are shucked to order at Olala.
14/20

Freshly shucked restaurant − and its $98 giant oyster − a treat for seafood lovers

Newcomer Olala is a “genuinely odd” restaurant from a family that really, truly loves shellfish and wants to tell you all about it.

  • Besha Rodell
Sabudana vada, an Indian potato and tapioca fritter, topped with crab.
14.5/20

Orson

Country fine dining in a historic silent picture theatre.

  • Besha Rodell
Florentino's storied dining room.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Melbourne’s iconic Florentino enters a new era, but it has never been of this era

The Italian fine diner is a piece of living history. Its new stewards are leaning into its Old World spirit, but can they meet the expectations of modern diners?

  • Besha Rodell
Hannah Green (in blue) on the floor at her sophomore restaurant, Daphne.
14/20

With a flexible menu built for maximum flavour, Etta’s sister Daphne is easy to love

The friendly Lygon Street venue is the perfect neighbourhood restaurant, but she has some growing to do, reviews Besha Rodell.

  • Besha Rodell
Nettle pasta with prawns.
Good Food hat15/20

Il Bacaro

The Venetian queen of Little Collins winds back the clock in her 30th year.

  • Besha Rodell
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Inside Gerald’s Bar 2.0, in the former Enoteca Sileno site.
14.5/20

Gerald’s Bar

One of Melbourne’s defining wine bars dials up the deliciousness in big new digs.

  • Besha Rodell
If you crave raw fish, the Sachi don is one of the best uses of $35 you’re going to find.
13.5/20

This ‘bargain’ rice bowl is one of the best ways to get a fancy − but not too formal − sushi fix

Sachi proves dining on premium raw fish does not have to mean spending big bucks on a fine-dining omakase menu.

  • Besha Rodell
The caviar coconut dish is a beguiling mix of creaminess, soft saline and nutty umami.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Yiaga

Luxury through a pointedly Australian perspective.

  • Besha Rodell
Orson restaurant is housed in Rosebud’s former Broadway Theatre.
14.5/20

‘A true revelation’: Why you should book this peninsula destination diner in an old theatre

At Orson, you pay for the number of courses that suits you, and the value gets better as you get greedier.

  • Besha Rodell