Horse safaris in the Okavango

Botswana's vast Okavango Delta is an astonishing maze of papyrus-lined waterways, meadows and woodland, rich in birdlife and game.

It is formed by one of Africa's great rivers, the Okavango, as it surges from the Angolan highlands to break up over the flood plains of the delta and then bleed away into the sands of the Kalahari Desert.

Although the Okavango is commonly known as a "swamp", the terrain is not marshy.

On the contrary, the flood plains to the south, which fill up with water in the winter when the rivers overflow, are dry and hard in summer and it is possible to drive or ride into the very heart of the delta.

Man has encroached little into the vast area of the Okavango and the environment remains as undisturbed as is possible to find anywhere in the world.

Animals that can be seen include elephant, hippo, hyena, lion, giraffe, crocodile, buffalo, leopard, wild dog and a wide variety of buck and smaller mammals.

And, of course, the bird life is magnificent wherever you go in the delta.

Imagine yourself mounted high above the long grass and reeds watching great herds of zebra, wildebeest and lechwe antelope as they move across the golden floodplains.

Or think of the breathtaking excitement when your silent progress along game trails, used only by the animals, brings you upon a herd of buffalo or elephant.

Cantering beside a giraffe is an experience you will never forget.

The only sounds you will hear, as the wind soughs through the long grass and rattles the palms, are the fish eagle's haunting cry, the splash of a disappearing crocodile and the faraway drumming of hooves.

As the blood-red sun drops into the black of night, the hyena's whoop and the lion's roar accompany your fireside reverie and a hippo's watery grunt punctuates your dreams.

PJ (for Peter John) Bestelink and his wife, Barney, can make these imaginings a reality.

They have operated Okavango Horse Safaris in the Okavango for the past 12 years, taking small groups of riders on trips of five or 10 days through the delta.

Their riding safari concession covers an area of more than 4,000 ha.

Riders spend between four and six hours a day in the saddle. This is broken by refreshment stops and a 10-minute walk for every two hours spent riding.

Afternoons can be spent taking siestas, swimming, on game drives or walks to see birds.

On a ride, guests have saddlebag breakfasts and picnic lunches brought by vehicles from base camp.

Up to three camps are used, depending on water levels and where the game is.

Barney is the horse expert and she and her team of grooms take care of them. The horses are a mix of thoroughbreds, such as boerperds, arabs and anglo arabs, between 14 and 17 hands. They are well schooled, responsive and have an even temperament.

The tack is English style and each saddle has a sheepskin cover for comfort. The grooms take care of tents, camp chairs and hot water showers.

Guests must have a minimum riding ability; they must be able to trot for stretches of 10 minutes, be comfortable at all paces and be able to gallop out of trouble.

And just in case there is trouble, PJ carries a rifle on all rides.

Details of your weight, riding experience and preferred drinks must be given in advance.

One of the guests to Okavango Horse Safaris was so moved by the experience that he pen-ned these words: "As 28

sets of hooves splashed through two feet of crystal clear water, I stood up in my stirrups at a lively canter and looked over my shoulder and beheld an unforgettable sight.

"An extended line of horses, of all colours and creeds, pounded through the mirror-calm expanse of this aquatic paradise.

"The Okavango Delta is an Eden of large expanses of water whose surface is scattered with colourful water lilies. Narrow channels, lined by papyrus reeds and water figs, act as roosting sites to the multitude of birds that inhabit this crown jewel of Africa.

"Large sand spits are covered by majestic ebony trees and massive groves of ivory palms, whose fan-like heads rustle noisily in the October winds.

"The reed beds offer cover to the secretive sitatunga antelope and the large islands are feeding grounds to to more than 30 mammals."

If you cannot ride, but want to visit the Okav-ango, the Bestelinks also run the five-star Nxamaseri Lodge, which is one of the delta's best-known tiger fishing camps.

The highlights are fly-fishing and bird-watching.

For a fly-fisherman, taking a tiger fish on a fly is one of the most exciting experiences as the fish has phenomenal speed and power.

Tiger fish are caught all year round, although the best months are August to October when the run of barbel causes the tiger fish to go into a feeding frenzy.

Nxamaseri's staff are trained to help those who are less experienced.

Nxamaseri has about 80 other varieties of fish, including bream, which is equally good to catch and to eat.

Bird life is prolific throughout the delta and you can expect to see the fish eagle, the white-backed night heron and the Pels fishing owl.

You can take rides through the waterways of the Okavango on a motorboat cruise or travel back in time on a dug-out canoe (mokoro) manoeuvred by one of the tribesmen through a maze of papyrus avenues to a island for a picnic.

Lively evenings can be spent around Nxamaseri's bar and dining-room with PJ and Barney.

You can arrange day trips by air to see the magnificent bushmen paintings at Tsodilo Hills or spend time viewing game.

Children are welcome.

FACT FILE

* Getting there: Qantas and South African Airways fly to Johannesburg, the closest destination in South Africa to Botswana. From Johannesburg, you would take a connecting flight on Air Botswana to Maun (rhymes with down), the gateway to Okavango Delta. Once in Maun, you will be taken to your camp, overland or by private aircraft, as arranged with the Bestelinks.

* Details: For Okavango Horse Safaris or Nxamaseri, contact PJ and Barney Bestelink at: Private Bag 23, Maun, Botswana, Africa. Phone: Botswana + 267 661671; fax: 661672; e-mail: ohsnx@info.bw.

* Further Reading: Including information on visas and money, a useful guide is Zimbabwe, Botswana And Namibia, published by Lonely Planet. A handy new Lonely Planet publication is the Zimbabwe, Botswana And Namibia Travel Atlas.

* Map and brochure: Write to the Automobile Association of South Africa, PO Box 70, Cape Town, 8000, South Africa.