Opinion
What should I do during a stopover in Seoul?
Michael Gebicki is Traveller’s expert Tripologist. Each week he tackles the thorny issues in travel as well as answering your questions. Got a question for the Tripologist? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au
En route to London in June, I have a five-night stopover in Seoul. Can you suggest what to do? I am keen to leave Seoul for a few days, but don’t want to fly. Any hotel suggestions for Seoul?
L. Dodgson, Mount Waverley, Vic
In Seoul, visit Gyeongbokgung Palace and the surrounding Bukchon Hanok Village, a great introduction to traditional Korean life. Explore Namsangol Hanok Village, a recreated traditional village in the city centre. To contrast the heritage sites visit the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a neo-futurist landmark designed by Zaha Hadid that houses global design exhibitions. Browse Garosu-gil’s tree-lined streets in the chic Gangnam area, ideal for cafes, boutiques and people-watching, and don’t miss the bustling local markets such as Namdaemun, Gwangjang and Dongdaemun. You could also dive into Seoul’s contemporary art scene in the galleries around Samcheong-dong and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.
For an easy escape from Seoul, the coastal town of Sokcho is the base for Seoraksan National Park which offers hikes, mountain views and waterfalls in classic Korean mountain scenery. Sokcho is a three-hour trip by express bus from Seoul.
Another option is Jeonju, a two-hour trip on a KTX express train. Jeonju is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy and home to a lovely hanok village area with traditional inns, tea houses and incredible food, noted for its stone-pot bibimbap. It’s a slower, more intensive cultural experience in contrast to Seoul’s dynamism. Stylish mid-range hotels in good locations in Seoul include the Hotel the BOTANIK Sewoon Myeongdong, Nine Tree by Parnas Seoul Insadong and Hotel Peyto Gangnam.
Following an international dragon boat festival in France’s Aix-les-Bains, my husband and I are thinking of hiring a car and, over a week, driving to some nearby alpine towns. He is a big fan of the Tour de France. Any tips or suggestions for essential sites?
C. Trypis, Mount Coolum, Qld
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In Aix-les-Bains itself, be sure to visit Lake Bourget and nearby Chambery, take the cruise to Abbaye d’Hautecombe and drive up Mont Revard, a classic cycling climb featured in the Tour de France. Start your one-week drive with a visit to Annecy, known as the “Venice of the Alps”, stay for a few nights and explore the medieval town, take a cruise on the lake or better still, hire bikes and cycle around it, and visit some of the lakeside villages such as Talloires or Menthon-Saint-Bernard. You might even stay here for more tranquil surroundings since Annecy will be bustling in August. Drive the Col de la Forclaz, a mountain pass with dramatic hairpin bends and stunning views.
Drive east to Chamonix, the alpine hub at the foot of Mont Blanc, great for mountain scenery and hikes. Take a ride on the Aiguille du Midi cable car for jaw-dropping panoramas and sample some of the Savoyard specialities such as fondue, cheeses and cured meats in the local markets. Spend whatever time remains in Megeve or Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, classic alpine ski towns with elegant chalets, mountain restaurants and hiking trails.
The drive back to Aix-les-Bains will take less than two hours. Lake Annecy and Chamonix are among the most iconic settings in the French Alps but quieter lakes such as Aiguebelette offer gorgeous, less-crowded options. Summer driving in the Alps is straightforward and scenic but check parking and seasonal restrictions in small villages and on mountain passes.
From Labuan Bajo, on the Indonesian island of Flores, I’d like to do a two-night boat trip to see Komodo dragons aboard a boat that does not follow the usual routine. As a single traveller, my goal is to find a single sleeping space without paying double. Any suggestions for a company, operator or agency that could help find last-minute, unsold cabins?
C. Barrington, St Kilda, Vic
Most live-aboard cruises from Labuan Bajo are three days, two nights and follow similar routes visiting Padar, Pink Beach, Komodo Island and Manta Point. Cruises typically depart on Fridays but there are variations. If you are prepared to share a cabin with another solo female traveller on a phinisi-style boat, you can save money because a cabin for one will cost more. The boats have air-con, en suite bathrooms and meals are included. Larger vessels such as Neptune, Vinca Voyages and Elbark offer shared-cabin options.
If you don’t want the standard route, smaller, local boats can tailor itineraries based on weather, guest interests and conditions at sea for a more adventurous itinerary. Instead of booking through an online travel agent, travellers advise contacting operators directly, especially for unsold cabins and negotiations to join existing groups. Try Maika, Wunderpus or Vinca Voyages. Mention you are solo and would prefer a single cabin but would pay a fair per-person rate.
I’m spending two weeks driving through Croatia in May. Would you include islands and if so, which or just concentrate on the mainland’s old cities and national parks? Nature and scenery are high on the list of priorities.
V. Berah, Paris
Two weeks is a generous amount of time and May is an ideal time; you can expect green landscapes, wildflowers, fewer cruise crowds and comfortable temperatures. Given your appetite for nature and beautiful scenery, I suggest a blend of mainland national parks and one or two islands. Plitvice Lakes National Park is an absolute must, a natural paradise of waterfalls, turquoise lakes and walking trails through forests.
Krka National Park is less dramatic but well worth it for its lovely river scenery and quieter walking trails in May. Coastal towns including Rovinj, Zadar and Split are well worth visiting and while it’s magnificent, Dubrovnik will be crowded. The coastal drive from Zadar to Dubrovnik is glorious. For the islands, Mljet is my top pick. Half of the island is a national park; it’s quiet, wild and restorative and easy to reach via ferry from Dubrovnik. Hvar has a glamorous side but the interior of the island is peaceful and rustic. Choose a base somewhere outside Hvar town for greater serenity.
Got a travel question? Include your name and suburb or town and send it to Michael Gebicki - tripologist@traveller.com.au
Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances