This first-class seat is $7500 for a single leg, but I paid under $600

The airline: Emirates

• Route Dubai to Johannesburg, flight EK763
• Frequency Daily
• Aircraft Airbus A380-800
• Class First; seat 3K
• Flight time 8 hours, 20 minutes (we arrive on schedule)

Checking in

Every man and his suitcase is being dropped off at the private departures entrance for Emirates business and first class passengers at Dubai International this morning. Inside, the first-class check-in is less chaotic. I’m second in line; but then in saunters a man who waltzes straight past me and to the counter. The check-in crew glance at me awkwardly, but continue to serve him.

Baggage

Two checked bags weighing up to 32 kilograms each for first class passengers, plus two pieces of cabin baggage, including a carry-on and briefcase or garment bag, weighing no more than seven kilograms each.

Loyalty scheme

Emirates Skywards has no global alliance program, but it is a partner airline of Qantas. I booked a reward seat using 117,000 Qantas Frequent Flyer points and less than $600 cash (a full fare on this route is $7500 one-way in first class), the third time I’ve done so in two years. My ticket includes access to the gargantuan Emirates First Class Lounge in terminal 3, which features complimentary 15-minute massages in the spa and direct boarding from the lounge.

The seat

The pointy-pointy end is on the upper deck at the front of the plane and comprises 14 seats in a 1-2-1 configuration, with two dedicated bathrooms with Emirates’ famous “shower spa”, which you can book. The running water in the shower is limited to five minutes. For novelty’s sake, I opt for a splash about 90 minutes before landing.

My seat, which is 208 centimetres long and 55 centimetres wide, is at the window and has privacy doors that create a fully enclosed suite. It reclines into a fluffy, fully-flat bed. As well as Emirates’ first-class PJs and slippers (controversial, but I prefer the business class get-up), the suite comes with a heap of perks, including snacks, chocolates, soft drinks, skincare by Byredo and an amenity kit by Bvlgari. This particular cabin is dressed in the older grey leather seats and walnut colour scheme and has not been retrofitted with Emirates’ glossy new lighter interiors.

Entertainment + tech

There’s a good selection of new releases to watch (including Wicked, and with popcorn from the snack menu, if you so wish) on the cinema-worthy 81-centimetre HD screen. Wi-Fi is free in my cabin class, and works well. My suite also has Bowers & Wilkins noise-cancelling headphones.

Service

Emirates recently introduced white-glove service in its first class cabins and the crew are friendly, efficient and ever-present. As the flight is just over eight hours, most of it is spent being fed by this warm team.

Food

Arabic tea, dates and Dom Perignon are served before take-off. As for the meal service, the hard part is choosing; an extensive menu includes everything from movie snacks to mezze. Amid white tablecloth and silverware, I dine on caviar with blinis and all the trimmings. In my experience, the mains are never the highlight on Emirates first class, but I sway from my usual MO and order the lobster gratin. Sadly, it’s rubbery and dry. The cheeseboard, affogato and Arabic chocolates swoop in to save the day.

Sustainability

The Dubai-owned airline is committed to reducing emissions (net zero by 2050), consuming responsibly and preserving wildlife and habitats.*

One more thing

Emirates recently changed its rules for children in first class: kids eight and under can no longer be booked or upgraded into first class using points creating a partial ban on children in first (they can still fly first class if the fare is being paid with money, not points).

The price

From about $17,000 return from Sydney or Melbourne to Johannesburg (unless you can get it on points like I did)**.

The verdict

It doesn’t matter if you’re flying in the older or newer cabins, Emirates first class is the epitome of mile-high luxury. My only complaint is that the flight was too short; I barely got a wink of sleep for all the gluttony.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer flew at her own expense.

*For more information about air travel and sustainability, see iata.org

**Fares are based on those available for travel three months from the time of publication and subject to change.