It’s more than 1000 years old, but this European hotel is still cutting edge

The hotel

Nobis Palma, Mallorca, Spain

Check-in

After missing our flight from Ibiza (a long and predictable story), we arrive at the hotel seven hours later than anticipated, at around 9.30pm. The handsome staff, dressed in stylish earth-toned threads from local designer Cortana, are instant mood-boosters, greeting us with smiles, champagne and few questions. The check-in process is over in a matter of minutes and we’re soon escorted to a suite on the second floor.

The look

Nobis Palma is no catfish; it’s even more exquisite in person than in photos. The palace was constructed more than 1000 years ago when Spain was under Muslim rule during a period of prosperity known as the “Islamic Golden Age”.

The 37-room stay, part of the Design Hotels portfolio, is designed like a riad, centred around two interior courtyards. Over the centuries, it has undergone several architectural iterations, with gothic archways, vaulted ceilings and baroque influences. Guests enter through original soaring wooden doors (large enough for horses to pass through to what were the stables at the far end) and into a lush courtyard illuminated with soft, pin-drop lighting and a water feature with floating flowers. Rough walls, historical bricks and arches have been carefully preserved and contemporary, Scandi-cool interiors have been reimagined by Swedish studio Wingardhs. Beyond the grand entrance is a second courtyard with a restaurant, a tiny, emerald-cut Roman bath-esque pool and sun terrace with loungers and glimpses of Palma’s historic old town.

The room

A little like descending into a luxe basement, our junior suite is accessed via a staircase and features an original wall, king-sized bed and glossy ensuite. Custom-made furniture including bed frames by Carl Hansen and lighting by Flos and Orsjo are a nod to the hotel brand’s Scandinavian roots, as too, are tonal, natural textures of wool, leather and wood that complement perfectly the dusky tones of the preserved walls. A “perfume bar” on top of the vanity offers up two bottled scents from local brand Viti Vinci that we can drown ourselves in during our stay. Conveniently, both USB-B and the newer USB-C charging outlets have been installed next to the bed.

Food + drink

Iranian caviar and champagne for breakfast? Why not. On our second night, we dine in the ethereal, candlelit courtyard containing the hotel’s only restaurant, NOI. When we visit, simple bites of oysters and anchovies feature alongside more inventive dishes such as smoked beetroots with strawberry dressing and parmesan ice-cream. However, the entrecote steak is disappointingly tough. Sole drinking spot Mirall Bar on level two is a knock-out space with nine-metre ceilings, curved sofas and oversized mirrors. You might spot the doorman spinning decks here every Thursday.

Out + about

Tucked up tightly in Palma’s charming old town, the hotel is located in the type of area where one can just aimlessly wander and find something cool at every corner; graffiti, small bars and shops selling salami and pate. If you’re feeling influenced by the staff uniforms, as I was, the Cortana flagship store is less than 10 minutes’ walk away.

The verdict

Restoring a stay steeped in this much history requires skill and restraint. This boutique hotel has been expertly and gracefully rebirthed into a queen.

Essentials

Superior rooms from €281 ($502) a night in low season. Carrer de les Caputxines, 9, Centre, 07003 Palma, Illes Balears, Spain. Two accessible rooms.

Our score out of five

★★★★½

Highlight

The 12th-century architecture, particularly the reception (spot the Arabic script wrapping around the high walls) and entrance, is staggeringly beautiful.

Lowlight

Breakfast is included in our stay, but waitstaff fail to communicate that it’s limited to certain dishes. They’re quick to rectify the miscommunication and kindly deduct from the bill.

The writer stayed as a guest of Nobis Palma Mallorca and Design Hotels. See designhotels.com