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When I arrive in Tokyo, this is the first thing I always do

Paul Marshall

Whenever I land in Tokyo, the first thing I do is rent a Tokyobike. These stylish rides not only make you look like a local but will make you feel like one, too, as you roll down picturesque streets, weave through charming alleyways, and unlock parts of the city that would have otherwise been off-limits.

Tokyo on two wheels.Getty Images

Trains move too fast, feet move too slow, and yet on a bicycle, you can see Tokyo at a pace that loses none of the immersive detail. It could be as simple as a local izakaya or a neighbourhood shrine that has never seen a tourist, exploring Tokyo by bike paints a better picture of the city than any article or Instagram post ever will.

Yanaka Cemetery... ride through and soak up the historic atmosphere.

If you’re worried about riding a bike in a foreign city, don’t be. Tokyo is remarkably bike-tolerant. There are no tradies in gargantuan utes and no school sports carpools that drift between lanes. The drivers here are safe and many of the roads are either quiet or marked with bike lanes.

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So why Tokyobike?

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To put it simply, ease. They’re affordable and have locations in some of the (dare I say it) best neighbourhoods in Tokyo. Currently, there are five. You can find them in Yanaka, Meguro, Shimokitazawa, Koto, and Kichijoji, and if these names mean nothing to you, I have fabulous news; you’re yet to discover the best parts of Tokyo.

Let’s start with Yanaka as it’s my favourite. Just north of Ueno, this is an understated neighbourhood with plenty of cafes and restaurants, while not being too cool like some other places on the list.

It’s home to the Yanaka Cemetery, which you can ride through and soak up the historic atmosphere. Note that while the cemetery is gorgeous, it’s still a cemetery, so please limit the photography lest you look like the French tour group I saw last time I was there.

Yanaka… an understated neighbourhood with plenty of cafes and restaurants.
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Head south to Koto, and you’ll find another great neighbourhood that gives you access to the Sumida River, where bike paths and quiet roads will take you up to the Tokyo Skytree if you follow them for long enough.

For those looking to ride at a more leisurely pace, the streets around Koto are easy to explore. There are great parks, coffee shops (Tiny Paradise is my favourite), and several spots to see cherry blossoms if you happen to be in Tokyo at the right time of year.

Riding among the blossoms.

Meguro is a little more dangerous to ride around. This has nothing to do with traffic and is more a reflection of the bars and izakayas you’ll encounter in that neighbourhood, which twist your arm and convince you that any time is Suntory Time.

Be aware that the police have started cracking down on cyclists riding under the influence of alcohol, with heavy fines and even jail time for those caught doing so. You can also get fined for cycling while using your phone so while it’s tempting to take videos while you ride, you should keep your phone in your pocket where it belongs.

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The only way to fly ... the Sumida River.

The other two stores on the list are Shimokitazawa and Kichijoji. I haven’t used these, but I can say that the neighbourhoods are fantastic. Shimokitazawa is known as the “coolest” neighbourhood in Tokyo and is the kind of place where used clothes are more expensive than something fresh out of the sweatshop. As for Kichijoji, it’s most commonly visited thanks to being near the Studio Ghibli Museum, a must for any Miyazaki fans.

Take note, these are not e-bikes. You will have to pedal using the power of your own two legs. The good news is that Tokyo is relatively flat and unless you take a wrong turn at Roppongi, you should be fine. It’s safe to lock them almost anywhere but keep an eye out for “no bicycle parking” signs and check with your hotel before leaving them out front.

Each individual store runs its own rental service, with different hours and available bike sizes. You can rent them across multiple days, and they provide everything you need from lights and locks, to helmets. If you struggle with the online booking form (I always seem to), shoot the store an email. The staff are friendly and always willing to help.

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THE DETAILS

STAY

TokyoNEST rooms in Nippori are small but serviceable. From $72 a night. See tokyonest.com

FLY
Qantas, JAL, and ANA all offer direct flights daily between Australian capitals and Tokyo. See qantas.com jal.co.jp ana.co.jp 

BIKE
Tokyobikes can be rented from ¥2200 ($24) a day with an additional ¥500 for helmets. See tokyobike.us

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www.japan.travel/en/au/

The writer travelled at his own expense.

Paul MarshallPaul Marshall is a Sydney-based travel writer who left his heart on the Banana Pancake Trail. With more than 10 years’ experience in the film, television, and video game industries, he now writes about his former life as a digital nomad and is always plotting his next escape. Whether it’s cycling across Korea or living in a Japanese fishing village, he loves a little-known destination and an offbeat adventure.Connect via email.

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